Movin' on up...to a Better Instrument

I received an email the other day from an adult bassist in their 30's who was a relative beginner. He was looking to move up to a better bass. I'm always happy to help, especially if I can actually play and hear the bass myself. Since this was just email advice, I thought I'd better stick with more general advice. Most of what I'd said is in this post was ripped from my response.(I really hate to type the same thoughts over again, that's why I'll never compose another thought without being able to save it digitally!)

I highly recommend trying lots of basses, even if they're not for sale, just to get an idea of the range of what different basses feel like. One of the best places to go to try a bunch of basses that are for sale is in Cincinnati, at the Cincinnati Bass Cellar. Most basses there are sold on consignment, so the price/value ratio can vary. The price/value question aside, it's more important to get a bass that fits your playing. Basses come in many different shapes and sizes, different string lengths, and each has distinct feel and response.

Older basses have a more comfortable feel in their playability, but don't be fooled by what you think is being projected out of the instrument and what you hear. They may play nice and easy, but the tone might be too dark or have a bright fuzzy edge that is more apparent 20 feet away than it is under your ear. Try to get someone else to play the same instrument so you can hear what it really sounds like. Basses usually are darker in tone than the player realizes, and the bright fuzzy edge problem is a killer in audition situations.

Some things can easily change the playability of a bass to suit your needs. The "set-up" of the bass involves your entire contact area of the bass, as well as some tonal adjustment inside the bass. It starts with the nut, fingerboard, bridge, and the strings. The sound post position as well as its length can be altered to change the tension of the top. Also the bridge can be changed to a different curvature, height, and width of the feet's' position. The fingerboard's shape should match the curve of the bridge. The strings can be moved closer together or farther apart at the bridge and nut. The nut can be raised or lowered- usually the nut needs to be lowered and the strings closer together. Also, a lift under the tailpiece can lesson the tension to change the playability. If you really want to improve your instrument's playability, don't try any of this at home. Only have these alterations made by a qualified luthier with good recommendations and an excellent reputation for their work on basses in particular. Even if you have a modest instrument, it helps to get the setup done with the greatest expertise.

Strings are an entirely different category. It's amazing how some strings behave differently on one instrument compared to another. It's a bit expensive to experiment with strings, so you may want to find some old ones you can borrow just to get an idea. I'd take a lot of notes when you check out instruments what all the different factors are, particularly the strings.

With all these alterations to consider, I would not allow yourself to believe that you can fix up any bass just to meet your needs after you buy it. It's almost like a spouse; you're not going to be able to make them a lot better after you marry them!:)Mostly what you see is what you get. Love them, and accept them and work with them, unless you can afford to have several.... I'll quit this analogy now before I get in any trouble with my wife!

A quick recommendation if you think the "G" sounds a little thin: try a Flexocor original. This old classic string is a little more expensive, but it is of a higher tension but less sustain. They have a very full sound when they are bowed, and have more of a thud when plucked. However, it's possible the tone won't match the other strings and the extra tension on the "G" can weaken the tone on the "E". It's all a balancing act. You'd think a matched set would be the way to go, but most players have at least one string that's different from the others and it's usually the "E".

Unless you're planning to play the bass exclusively with a pick-up and an amp, I'd stay away from plywood(laminate) basses. A hybrid sounds like a good idea, but I still haven't seen one that I like. If you really need an instrument to make enough sound to be heard on its own, it's got to be a fully carved instrument. If you don't have at least $15K, I'd just look for as much volume and less for tone. Those Chinese basses that cost about $6k might mellow out in a hundred years, but for now you'll have to take my reassurance that it's sounds a lot more mellow to the listener than it does to the player. As long as you get an expert set-up and the right set of strings, a balanced instrument can be very satisfying for the player and listener.

And finally, get a good bow. Find a bow that make your bass sound as good as it can, and don't be surprised that even a cheap bass sounds good with a $3000 bow. You might not need to spend that much, but be assured that the difference is very real in the tone and playability. I can't think of another category where you could spend more money on equipment and it actually makes you play better.

Before you finalize a purchase, be sure you've heard other people's opinion of the instrument's condition, sound and value. Is the neck on straight? How good are the repairs? Big, old, awkward, and fragile boxes with lots of tension on them have repairs--and the quality of the repair work makes a difference. Also, have other people play the instrument so you can really hear for yourself. Try to play the bass in ensembles first, and try it in a variety of different rooms. After all that, trust your own judgement.